Doing a seal kit is cheap, many decry it but it will get you back on the road for year or two. The drop arm nut has a tab washer on it - use an old screwdriver or chisel to bend the washer back, put a 40mm socket on the nut and undo it. Still just have manual steering. Is expense a massive issue? Clean you pump off a bit. Undo the nut until it's at the end of the thread. Road test the vehicle and check that the steering wheel is centralised. Fluid will slowly syphon into the mainly empty system.
Tighten drag link clamp bolts: Tighten M8 bolts to 22 Nm 16 lbf. Too loose and it won't seal correctly. The shaft is difficult to remove. If you want to go a bit further and replace the rest of the seals, continue reading. Then take the car out for a drive, and make sure it feels ok. From floor mats to filters to complete engines, we carry the widest range of parts and accessories for your Land Rover you will find anywhere! Position container to catch fluid spillage from steering box.
This disco was only to sit at the house for the occasional use over the winter so I'm not wanting to throw thousands at it, I will probably go down the route of a re manufactured box as second hand is always a gamble especially when the job is a bit of a bugger, so if I do it once I can move on to the next repair that I'm sure will be along. With engine at idle speed, and an assistant turning the steering from lock to lock, loosen bleed screw on top of steering box. Roll vehicle backwards and forwards to relieve stresses in steering and suspension. Confused Hi I had the same problem with my steering box, it would drip then dump then drip some more. Installing it into the vehicle is the reverse of removal. Place the drop arm on the new unit make sure it's on the right way up and the slot is inline with the threaded hole. It's easier on the bench than in the car.
My steering wheel just spins free, easily, and the steering wheel no longer controls the front tires. This low pressure line is also the return line that carries the fluid back to the Reservoir. That's all, if you have any questions please refer to your workshop manual. Some do last longer but as a rule, plan for this to get you through for another 30k. The other is rigid, so take care not to bend it. Connect drag link to drop arm and tighten nut to 80 Nm 59 lbf. Fast Delivery We ship same-day on orders placed before 12:00pm eastern time, Monday - Friday excluding holidays from both our East and West Coast Warehouses.
Remove the nut, washer, and arm. Keep the hoses connected at all times. Took it back to the garage, he phoned me within half an hour and told me car was ready. From the pressure line it travels into the Power Steering Box. When you have undone them all, the steering box will just pull away from the chassis. So I bit the bullet and ordered a seal kit from land rover parts.
From inside the wheel arch - replace the splash guard bracket - making sure the earth wire is located properly. One off, one on in an afternoon. If your pump is leaking from the front seal you are in for a bigger project and could possibly benefit from a replacement pump. Stick the rollers back in. Turn the box over onto the other side and do the same thing again. Its a fairly straight forward job to change the box.
Without disconnecting drag link from drop arm, adjust the length of the drag link to bring the steering wheel to the central position. Fluid will drain out all over the chassis rail, drop arm and front axle, so use a container to catch it. The reason for the leak - looks like rust travelled through the seal - allowing oil to come out. You have to slide the pump and the bracket forward away from the engine to remove it. Steering link next - undo the 18mm nut, belt the drop arm with a hammer as shown it'll seperate after a few whacks , then pull the rod down out of the way.
Close the bleed nipple, remove the pipe and replace the splash guard. Once you have everything hooked back up fill your reservoir with the correct type of fluid, or what ever you feel is appropriate. Once tight - bend the tab washer over one of the nut flats. In the past few weeks the box has started leaking again!!! If your pump is leaking from where the front meets the rear housing you can throw those two seals away and continue reading. Compare with the figures given in General Data Adjust 1.
Once you have to box on the floor - you need to remove the stabiliser bar which will be re-fitted when you put in your new steering box. Lever the cap centres up and the whole thing will come away. There are 4 x master splines, so the arm can be fitted multiples of 90-degrees out. So turn steering full left lock to remove sector shaft after unbolting top plate, Drift out old bearings carefully tap in new bearings with same size socket thin wall on bearings! I had a 10 ton hydraulic puller and just about managed it. Engine top cover next - one 13mm bolt on the drivers side, and two on the opposite side.
It is common to have a new or resealed pump installed and because of the higher pressure back to normal pressure the o-rings fail. Anyway - on with it. Well today after a short run of about 10 mile the steering became incredible heavy so I though it had lost fluid after stopping and checking, there was no fluid left in the reservoir, luckily I had some so I filled it up and by the time I got home it was heavy again, checked and it was empty, thought it may be a split pipe, but the oil is pouring from the output shaft just above the drop arm, can't see the point in stop leak as I don't think a weld would stop this leak!! The battery positive cable will tuck away by the header tank. Not sure how realistic a reason this is - be interesting to hear from others on the forum. There are 3 x 8mm self tappers and two press clips holding it in place. Loosen track rod and adjuster clamp bolts.