Is the light illuminated and bright? Left me stranded more than once, even with dual batteries. All I have to do is bump the key to the start position and the engine fires up. If the resistance is still high, the heating element should be replaced. Today we picked up the truck and it seems to run fine, but the starting problem is still there. One option I have considered, but did not know where to start was go to someone with the proper instruments. I think that is the one that commonly gets burnt from the blower motor.
Then hook it back up and see if you can start it. You could look in the fuse box first and check the fuses for it you may find its blown due to a glow plug failing causing to much power to go to the other plugs so look their first and replace if needed then give it a try but by all means replace the glow plugs as they will need doing anyway. I was a two wire grey connector one a long time ago when I did this it looked good finally had to give each wire end inside the connector a cleaning and spread the contacts a little and problem gone. If the ohmmeter is still reading anything other than zero 0 , replace the intake manifold air heater. The world's 1 resource for everything Cummins Turbo Diesel, with a core focus on supporting every individual in a positive environment, regardless of experience and technical ability. Intake Manifold Air Temperature Sensor Test 1 Disconnect the wire harness connector from the intake manifold air temperature sensor. If not, replace relay and bracket assembly.
To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. If not, you've got a bad heater element, or bad connections. There has always been an electrical gremlin in this truck. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and short it the positive terminal. I hope whatever caused the failure manifests itself right away so they can fix the root cause. Note position of wires before removal. The proper fix should have been to simply relocate relay positive small gauge wire to the run only position.
Com, All Rights Reserved Any content that is not property of RamchargerCentral. We will send you a welcome letter with your user conformation to the email you provide us, if you don't receive it please check your spam folder in your email account. We have detected that you are blocking our advertisers. Thank you, for understanding and whitelisting Mopar1973Man. My W350 is no different than any W250, though.
Good Luck saggy, My truck came that way from the factory. Replace the sensor if it is not within the range of resistance specified in the chart. Also check between terminal 4 to the sensor connector terminal. The resistance should be zero 0. I've never used them before, but they seem to be a good deal on the surface.
If not why would the light stay on? The heaters should have power, which should then drop to 0 V when the wait to start light goes out. But after about 10 seconds, the light would go out and the truck would start. Note: the heavy feed wires from the battery and to the heaters were removed for photo below for clarity. I personally would take it to a dealer because you know they have all the equipment needed and will do it the specified way. Pulled it and ohms are in spec. The electric plug should be on the passenger side just inside grill on the hood.
Jeremy answered 5 years ago You honestly dont even need a wait to start light. In nice weather it probably starts like a champ but when the temperature drops the glow plugs work overtime to get that initial bang to start. Does it have a temp sensor somewhere that needs replaced? I'm not to diesel savy, but there might be something with the wait to start light flashing and the shorted sensor I spoke of earlier? Check the relays if you can and know how to and if all of them are good I would just accept the issue as a fact of the car getting up in age and beginning its slow descent into oblivion. If this does not happen, check the Intake Air Temperature sensor. ? Im getting power to the injection pump injection pump was changed when i bought the truck two months ago ,and after cranking i can hear the lift pump running for 20-25sec as expected as normal operation.
The ground starts at the battery negative terminal on the driver's side, goes to joint connector 2 in the power distribution center main fuse box under the hood , then through the wiring harness to the relay coil connectors. Last edit to this page: March 7, 2008. If they are not, the ground wire has broken. Also check both ends of the ground cable at the rear of the heater for corroded or dirty connections. So I attributed to that problem. Gauge cluster froze up but reset again after a couple key cycles. The relay should click and the ohmmeter should show a closed circuit across the large terminals.